I thought I was ready -- skill wise -- for a loop of Hog Island. I was not. That said, I'm glad for the attempt because of the skill growth I experienced in the open waters of Pamlico Sound. I recommend this trip only for paddlers who are very comfortable with paddling open sea water and who have the stamina to do so for upwards of six hours.
Vital Statistics: This route makes a balloon around Hog Island, which is to the right (east) of the Cedar Island ferry dock. It's about 7.5 miles long.
The Route: You're on your own to scout and find this one. After departing the boat ramp, you paddle along the shoreline until you reach a large channel, then you continue to paddling until until you reach the tip of Hog Island. Then you turn right again into the protected water of Cedar Island Bay. When you reach the large channel you bypassed earlier, you hang a left, to paddle through the channel to return to the Pamlico Sound. Then you turn left to return to the ferry dock. The picture below faces east, so you can get a sense of what the distance looks like.
What I Learned: I selected this route from a book by Pam Malec, Guide to Sea Kayaking in North Carolina. She designates it as an intermediate-to-advanced trip, and because I've paddled some big water (Lake Superior, Kabetogama Lake, Barkley Sound and had some experience crossing open water), I thought I was ready. WRONG, because: the map makes the route look safer than it really is by showing a route that hugs the shoreline.
What I learned is that there is a "sweet spot" if you will, between where the swells just pass you by -- and you can ride/traverse them easily -- to where the swells decide to become breakers and start pushing you to shore. I did not capsize nor did I swamp my kayak, but truth be told, I wasn't ready for the mental effort to keep my boat in that sweet spot. After about 30 minutes of outbound paddling, I decided that on this particular day it was wiser to capitulate than persevere.
You might decide from the picture above that the water doesn't look too challenging. Maybe for your ability it isn't. But for me, I was reminded of how different water looks at water level than it does from a standing level and that I have more to learn. Such is Life, eh?
I also learned that in picking a sea-going route that islands are your friends. They diffuse the power of the water somewhat.
Boat Ramp: Yes! If you're up to the challenge, then you'll appreciate the very nice boat ramp. Because this access is so very remote, you're unlikely to encounter much in the way of boat ramp contention. In my picture, the boat ramp is to the left, on the yon side of the pilings. We chose to hoist our boats over the bulkhead and use the sand. Be aware that you're sharing the area with the ferry, so take care not to put yourself in the way of that very large vessel.
Restrooms: Yes! It's a bit of a walk to the ferry dock, but you'll find facilities there.
Other Things to Know: Take everything you will need: water, energy bars, sun screen. You certainly don't want to bonk out there, so keep the food within easy reach.
Because I did not finish the loop, I cannot speak to places to beach your kayak if you want to rest. Nor does the guidebook indicate that the calm side of the loop has some areas available. I can tell you that you probably won't want to beach until you're safely in calmer water unless you're already skilled in launching in small breakers.
Also -- and I hate to admit this because it was was stupid decision on my part -- but use your spray skirt in water like this!!!! I decided that the day was a little too warm for using mine, and because I detest being hot while paddling, I decided to dodge the spray skirt. WRONG. Like I said, I didn't swamp my boat, but I did wonder about my good sense, or lack thereof. (Later I'll blog about what I've learned about dressing for paddling.)
What You Will See: Besides a lot of open water, you may see lots of birds. I didn't, but I understand that the Hog Island area is a haven for lots of birds. Even if I had made the complete trip, I was somewhat too early for good birding, as another trip in the area revealed. More on that later.
Which Brings Me to A Good Plan B: If you're really keen to paddle this area to see the birds, another way to do so is with a different route, beginning in the community of Lola. I understand from a resource once produced by the Crystal Coast Canoe and Kayak Club (but now no longer available), that Lola has a boat ramp that puts you into the protected side of Cedar Island Bay, which means that you don't have to traverse the Pamlico Sound. But I didn't discover this tidbit until the next day, so I cannot give you any info. When time permits, however, I do plan to give this route a try.
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